The morning began with a short drive from ORIGINS into the emerald hinterlands of northern Costa Rica. Traveling by private transport with our naturalist guide, Carlos Alvarey, we wound our way through the countryside toward Bijagua de Upala. A gentle 30-minute drive brought us to a roadside outpost for freshly brewed local coffee and artisan snacks. Framed by rolling hills and sweeping tropical views, the drive itself set a quiet, contemplative tempo for the day ahead.
Upon arriving at Bijagua Waterfall Lodge, we were warmly welcomed. While Carlos handled our access permits, we prepared for the trek with a thoughtful detail provided by the property: a botanical insect repellent formulated in the lodge’s own laboratory, alongside a light layer of sunscreen. Properly outfitted, we stepped onto the trail and into the sanctuary where the rainforest meets the cloud forest.
The ascent carried us through a landscape of shifting moods and textures. Sun-dappled glades gently gave way to intimate pathways shrouded in lush cloud forest and ancient flora. Every turn revealed the subtle rhythms of the wild: delicate processions of leafcutter ants navigating the forest floor, vibrant tree frogs nestled among damp fronds, and rare tropical birds darting through the high canopy. With a practiced eye, Carlos pointed out species almost perfectly camouflaged within the undergrowth, turning the hike into a fascinating introduction to the extraordinary biodiversity of Bijagua.
As the trail climbed higher, the sound of flowing water heralded our approach to a series of pristine, glass-like natural pools. Carved into the landscape, these crystal-clear swimming holes offered an irresistible invitation. Prepared with swimwear beneath our hiking clothes, we shed our outer layers and immersed ourselves in the cool, mountain-fed waters. It was a moment of pure, uninterrupted bliss – a rare chance to quiet the mind and simply take in the sounds and sensations of the jungle.
Refreshed, we continued along the earthen path, where reliable, high-traction hiking footwear proved essential against the damp terrain. Then, without warning, the canopy opened to reveal the crown jewel of the journey: the magnificent Bijagua Waterfall. Tumbling dramatically down the sheer cliff, the cascade thundered into the basin below, generating a mist-filled amphitheater of sound and motion. Standing before such raw, unbridled power was exhilarating.
Over the course of two immersive hours, the trail had taken us deep into Bijagua and the natural world surrounding ORIGINS. Yet the waterfall itself was only part of what stayed with us. There were also the leafcutter ants crossing the trail, the frogs almost invisible among the foliage, the first plunge into cold mountain water, and Carlos quietly pointing toward details we would never have noticed on our own.
By the time we returned to ORIGINS, the rainforest surrounding the property somehow felt different. For a few hours, we walked through it, listened to it and discovered some of the life hidden within it. At the end of a day exploring Bijagua, we returned to the same place, but with a deeper sense of what lies beyond the view.
